At this time of year, many Maine foragers think of fiddleheads.

These are the beginnings of many kinds of ferns. Somehow, fern experts are often so caught up in explaining other parts of the plant that they fail to illustrate this first growth.

In my wetland garden stood an assortment of shrubs. At the edge of this small jungle, just above a vernal pool grew a colony of ferns. For a few spring weeks, from the fern crowns, sprouted glossy. scrolled-up crosiers, the beginnings of the sterile fronds of ostrich ferns. (These are biologically Matteuccia struthiopteris, named in the mid-1800s for an Italian physicist.)

But that isn’t why you’re reading this. As a forager or admirer, you need to know how to spot the edible traits. Look, usually, for a colony, now or in the next few weeks, of 1-2-inch shiny stems, tightly rolled up like the tops of violins.

Brown coverings will be coming off. Each stem has a u-shaped dent running down its length. Cut off and bag two or three fiddleheads. If stems have grown tall, leave them to grow into stately fronds. Go on to the next clumps.

Never cut all the crosiers, or you may destroy the stand. There’s enough so the stand of ferns will keep producing for several years. Bring your harvest indoors and wash it, rubbing off the brown coverings. Boil for 15 minutes, or steam for 10-12 minutes.

Bring in just a few to sample. Serve them (boiled or steamed) cooled with an oil-and-vinegar dressing, adding salt to taste. Or cool quickly with ice cubes and bag for the freezer for later use. If you like them, serve them with butter as part of supper. They may be pickled for winter use.

Fiddleheads may be mild — a first spring vegetable. Try them in moderation until you know they’ll agree with you. Vitamin A and C should be part of their package. Add some bacon scraps if you wish.

Buy them in the market when you see them, as long as they’re fresh. Or just relish being a forager. One of the first wild vegetables: It’s spring!