Kraut's ready.

For years, during the fall, those two words in a tiny newspaper ad hung on the door of the Kraut Haus in Waldoboro. Now the kraut, from Morse’s Sauerkraut, is always ready, year-round.

Sauerkraut is kind of an odd food. It's one of those things you either love or you hate. There’s not much ambiguity about it. A description of it, to anyone who's never tried it, probably wouldn't be all that enticing. It is, after all, just grated cabbage, sprinkled with some salt and a little sugar, and left to, well, stew in its own juices.

The process it goes through is called lacto-fermentation.

Sounds kind of unappetizing, doesn't it?

But 98 years after Virgil Morris, the original owner of Morse’s Sauerkraut in Waldoboro, made his first batch of the sour stuff and set to marketing it to anyone willing to give it a try, Morse's Sauerkraut is more popular than ever — the sauerkraut, and the thriving restaurant and international deli, on a quiet road off Route 1 in Waldoboro.

Two years ago, Cody LaMontagne and her husband James Gammon bought Morse's. The two, both from Sumner, have known each other since the third grade. “He was my first boyfriend, and we've been together since we were 17,” LaMontagne said.

The previous owners, Dave and Jackie Sawyer, had been at the helm for 15 years, and they were looking for the “right people” to take over.

LaMontagne and Gammon fit the bill.

LaMontagne, who had traveled extensively in Europe, loves food. “If you're a food person you never forget your first visit,” she said. “You come in, wondering what this unassuming little store on the side of the road is.”

Inside that unassuming little store is arguably the largest display of international specialties and delicacies you'll find anywhere in Maine. And the aroma of Reubens and other old world Northern European foods being served in the small dining room is enough to convince you to get in line and wait for up to an hour to sit at one of the five cozy booths.

The menu that features Northern European specialties, including the business’s signature Reuben and other sandwiches, schnitzels, pierogies and spaetzle and German noodles, hasn't changed a lot since LaMontagne and Gammon took over. The recipes are all basically the same, with some updates. “My first day was the previous cook's last day,” LaMontagne said. “I stepped right into the kitchen and learned the recipes the way they made them, then I made some changes to make them my own.”

But she said she felt it was important to not make too many changes. “I quickly learned that taking over this place had very little to do with me, because it's a place that means a lot to so many people, and I think it's important to honor that. I wanted to be respectful of the things that made it so wonderful in the first place.”

Their European market is full to the brim with delicacies and specialties from all over the world: Hams from Germany, Parma prosciutto from Italy, Bavarian sausages, Dutch and English cheeses and hundreds of other items.

“We keep adding things,” LaMontagne said. “We’ve brought in more items from France and Scotland. In the deli section, with the imported cheeses and cured meats, we've brought in some great new stuff from New York, not just German and Polish things, but Italian and other ethnic foods.”

Beer and wine are sold in the market, but no alcohol is served in the restaurant, and never has been, according to LaMontagne. “All of that is grandfathered. It's like a magical little thing that can exist the way it exists because it started so long ago.”

Touting sauerkraut's health benefits, LaMontagne said it’s incredibly healthy. “It contains all the probiotics you need, and live sauerkraut (not pasteurized) is a wonder food.” And it keeps, as long as it is kept cold. Sauerkraut is one of those amazing apocalypse foods. It just keeps fermenting.”

Last year, close to 70 tons of cabbage were used to make Morse’s sauerkraut. It can usually be found at Hannaford, small stores from Portland to Bangor and, of course, at Morse's Sauerkraut.

Morse's 100th anniversary is in 2018, and LaMontagne is talking about publishing a book. “We're the newest caretakers of this institution, and I feel like there's a level of responsibility that comes with it. We still have customers coming here who came when Virgil Morris owned it.

“I feel infinitely blessed every day.”

Morse's is just over seven miles from Route 1, down Route 220 in Waldoboro, and almost three miles from Route 17 in Washington.

And here's a juicy little tidbit that the modest, demure Lamontange would not have divulged if it wasn't dragged out of her: Her brother is the famous singer-songwriter, Ray LaMontagne.

Morse’s is located at 3856 Washington Road (Rt. 220). Call 207-832-5569 or visit the website at http://www.morsessauerkraut.com/index.html.