Westport Island’s Bonyun Preserve fun to hike and explore
Both beginning and veteran trail hikers will enjoy exploring the Bonyun Preserve located on the southern end of Westport Island.
A part of the Kennebec Estuary Land Trust, the Bonyun Preserve consists of 68 acres of mostly forested land bordered by a tidal inlet and Knubble Bay. It’s a bit off the beaten path in its location on West Shore Road about 10 miles from the Westport Bridge (no pun intended).
To get there from U.S. Route 1 in Wiscasset, take either the north or southbound exits of Route 144, also known as the Birch Point Road. Follow it until you come to the turn for Westport. In a few minutes you’ll cross the Westport Bridge towering high over the Back River. This swift moving part of the river is known as Cowseagan Narrows, a name of Abenaki origin loosely translated to meaning “place of rough waters,” an apt description here when the tide is running. Looking southwards from the bridge, you’ll see Berry Island where Native Americans once gathered for seasonal pilgrimages.
From the bridge, it’s about a 10-minute drive to the preserve. Be wary as the road has many twists and turns, so obey the speed limit, relax and enjoy the scenery. Along the way you’ll pass Ferry Road on the right, which leads down to the onetime ferry landing. It was here before the bridge was built that cars and other vehicles were once carried across the river to Wiscasset by a ferry boat operated by a cable system.
Further along you’ll pass the first turnoff for the West Shore Road on your right. It’s easier getting to the Bonyun Preserve if you take the southern entrance of West Shore Road which loops around. Stay on Route 144. You’ll pass the Squire Tarbox Inn, the Westport Community Church and historic town hall in that order; they are all are on your right. Continue past the north and south entrances to East Shore Road. The south entrance of West Shore Road is the next road on the right. Turn here and you’ll soon see a small parking area on the left along with a kiosk marking the trail head.
For most of the way the trail is hard packed, dry and easy to traverse. It’s also well-marked, which makes it a great place for beginner hikers.
One of the first points of interest along the way is a small stream. During periods of wet weather, water spills into an inlet known as Mill Cove. From here the trail turns abruptly to the right and follows the shoreline of a tidal inlet. The path, abundant with wild blueberries when I was last there, leads to a small wooden bridge spanning the mucky upper reaches of the inlet.
After crossing the bridge the trail turns southwards again before dividing; the Mill Cove Trail on the left, Thomas Point Trail to the right. Both trails come together again at the tip of this small peninsula known as Thomas Point, which juts into Knubble Bay. This is close geographically to where the Sheepscot and Sasanoa rivers converge. Thomas Point was so-named for James Thomas, an early pioneer who settled here with his family in 1760. It’s hard to believe today, but this place was once all cleared farm and pasture land. As you’ll see it has all gone back to trees.
Mill Cove, as the name suggests, was so named because its tidal waters were once used to power to two lumber mills. The earliest of these was located on the upper reaches of the inlet where a small earthen dike once stood. Early records show a saw and grist mill to have been in operation here as early as 1794. Although no trace of the mill remains today, you can easily find the place where it once stood.
The second mill site is a little further southward and just off the trail. It was here in the mid-19th century that the Heal Family operated a lumber mill. Raw timber was cut into finished planking and finer cut lathes using the river’s tidal waters to power an old-style up-and-down saw. This was later replaced with a more modern circular cutting blade. An earthen dike leads to the small island where the mill once stood.
The site is best appreciated at low tide when the building’s footprint is more readily traced. South of the dike is a small cove where a row of rotting piling marks the location of a former wharf, a piece of rusted machinery can be seen partially buried in the mudflat. It’s here at the low water mark that you can also see the remains of hundreds of lathes left behind when the mill closed.
A short walk from the mill site brings you to the tip of Thomas Point where you’ll find a small stand of strange looking wind blow scrub pine. Across the bay lies the town of Arrowsic, downriver is Georgetown. Northward from here is a part of the river known as Little Hellgate.
You can return the same way you came or by hiking the Thomas Point Trail. This path also clearly marked carries you along the peninsula’s western shore before linking up again with the Mill Cove Trail and the way to the parking area.
The preserve was donated to the Kennebec Estuary Land Trust in 2002 by the family of folklorists Bill and Gene Bonyun of Westport.
The Bonyun Preserve is free, open dawn to dusk year-round for hiking, snowshoeing and seasonal hunting. Dogs are not permitted. Motorized vehicles and camp fires are also prohibited.
For more information about this and other Kennebec Estuary Land Trust properties that are open to the public, go to www.kennebecestuary.org.
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